Lake District June 2014 – Day 8

Sadly, our last day in this wonderful part of the world and our usual rule of ‘not talking about going home’.

A full day planned with an early arrival at Wray Castle, a recent acquisition for the National Trust only this year in its third season of opening. Well, we say recent acquisition but the castle (which is in fact a Victorian mock castle) has been owned by the trust since 1923 and until three years ago had been tenanted out to various organisations. A biological laboratory firm, the YHA, a telecommunications company and most recently the Merchant Navy Training College have all called the castle home over recent decades and when the lease became available again in 2011 the National trust were unable to find any new tenants and as such, made the decision to open the castle to the public.

Wray Castle

Wray Castle

Built on the wealth of a Victorian gin and wine merchant company, the house was intended as a holiday home for Mr & Mrs Dawson. Mr Dawson was an eminent Liverpool Surgeon and Mrs Dawson the one with the wealth so it seems. Upon her father’s death, she inherited a vast fortune from his company, some of which was used to build the castle. Estimated at a cost of £60000-£70000 at the time of building, this translates into approximately £22 million today! No expense was spared and the mock medieval design is typically Victorian with impressive Gothic architecture and all the amenities any country estate worth its salt would boast including a fernery, kitchen garden, ice house and lake.

View from Wray Castle

View from Wray Castle

In its heyday the property played host to many great figures of the time including Millais, the Potter family (Beatrix celebrated her 16th birthday in the castle whilst on a summer break), Cannon Rawnsley (co-founder of the National Trust) and various MPs from Gladstone’s cabinet. The early documentation of the castle, and as such the evidence on which much of today’s thinking is based, has been derived from Beatrix Potter’s extensive journals, recorded during time she spent in the castle. This, along with her father’s photographs (he was a keen amateur photographer), provide an insight into the story of the castle, former residents and its interiors.

Today, there is evidence of the Merchant Navy’s impact around every corner. Rather bizarrely, many of the interiors represent those of a 1980’s office block with dormitories and mess areas to boot. The rooms are currently used as a mixture of children’s and family activities and small exhibitions tracing the life of the castle. It is the trusts intention to renovated the fabric of the castle, returning the structure as close to that of the original build as possible but this is as far as they intend to take it. Once complete, the rooms will be left unfurnished and a family themed approach will be maintained. The guide explained that there are enough National trust properties that are decorated and as such, it was important that this was left bear and accessible to all. Not sure we agree with that but then, who are we? A room full of giant foam building blocks for you to build your own castle or magnificent Victorian Gothic interiors….? We know which we would pick, there are always plenty of grounds to build castles in.

Following lunch in Ambleside, we made a short stop at the National Trusts smallest property, Bridge House. Built during the 16th Century as an apple store, the small house spanning the river has seen many uses over the years. The property, which has a single room downstairs and a single room upstairs was saved by the people of Ambleside in the 1920’s and given to the trust to protect for future generations.

Bridge House - Ambleside

Bridge House – Ambleside

Our second stop of the day, The Armitt Museum. Set up by the three Armitt sisters at the turn of the 20th century, the aim of the museum was to collect historically and social important documents pertaining to the local area, safe guard them for future generations and make them accessible to those who wished to view them, either for personal, educational or resource purposes.

The Armitt Museum, AMbleside

The Armitt Museum, Ambleside

Patrons and early benefactors include Beatrix Potter, her husband William Heelis and Ruskin to name but a few. The collection is very impressive containing the majority of Potters early botanical work and scientific studies in fungi. The museum is unique in that it is the only museum to house a collection of Beatrix Potter’s work that was gifted by her during her life time. There was also a temporary exhibition on Kurt Schwitters a German artist who made his name in Ambleside.

http://armitt.com/armitt_website/kurt-schwitters-armitt-museum-art-gallery-and-library/

It plotted his life and described how he had battled with his need to be creative and follow the path he believed was his calling with the day to day struggle of life on the bread line with a family at the turn of the century in rural Ambleside. Following his death, as is the case with so many artists, his work became very desirable.

Upstairs in the museum is a huge collection of antiquarian books which have been collected over time. The collection contains many first editions and early manuscripts hand annotated by their authors. Lots and lots of information to read and digest so we were very happy indeed!

Our last stop of the day was a few hours in the glorious sunshine explore the Lake District Wildlife Park. As it was towards the end of the day it was much quieter and we enjoyed working our way around the circuit of enclosures, speaking to the keepers and watching as the residents enjoyed feed time.

Home

 

Lake District June 2014 – Day 7

Isel Hall

A visit to Cockermouth this morning with a guided tour of Wordsworth’s House.

Rear of Wordsworth House - Cockermouth

Rear of Wordsworth House – Cockermouth

We have come full circle with the life of Wordsworth now as this is the house he, and his siblings, were all born in. Wordsworth’s father John was the lawyer and land agent from the eminent Leigh family and the impressive Georgian residence in which the family lived ‘came with the job’ as it were. We soon learned that the grand façade and principle rooms were all in aid of entertaining the Leigh associates and that Wordsworth’s family would dominate the planer, rear rooms of the property. Despite the divide however we learnt that the Wordsworth family household was a happy one and that the children had a varied and healthy childhood. Unfortunately, the untimely death of Wordsworth’s mother whilst still young meant that the children were palmed out to extended family members so that John could manage to maintain his work. William and his elder brother went to boarding school at Hawkshead Grammar; Dorothy, the middle sister, went to a distant aunt she’d never met and following this, didn’t see her brothers or sisters for nine years; and the two younger children were looked after why a governess in the house. Not long after his wife’s death, John also died and the children were bought up latterly with grandparents.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/wordsworth-house/

The house is now looked after by the National Trust after being saved from demolition and life as a bus station by Cockermouth residents.  The front half of the house and more formal rooms are dressed with authentic Georgian pieces and as such, guests are invited not to interact with the displays in the usual manner. However, in the back of the house, in the rooms overlooking the garden, the rooms, whilst Georgian themed, have all been filled with replicas and modern replacements which means that interaction, touching and using the items is encouraged.

Wordsworth House Gardens

Wordsworth House Gardens

Perchcrow - not very good as a scarecrow!

Perchcrow – not very good as a scarecrow!

Our guide helped with an overview of the family home and how it had shaped William as a young boy. References to the house and local area are evident in many of his works including references to the River Derwent (which runs at the back of the property) and the shenanigans he and his brother got up to whilst spinning tops at their grandparents’ house in nearby Penrith!

Our second stop of the day was Isel Hall, a short drive North East of Cockermouth. Perhaps one of the most intriguing family histories we’ve heard of in recent years with a very varied and potted history. The very complicated family tree even includes relations of Jane Austen. Most recently, in 1969, a member of the family died without a will and the only members of the extended family in a position to live in and manage the hall were the Austen-Leigh family from London. They purchased the house from a distant cousin at the probate price only to find that 12 months later, Mr Austen-Leigh, 27 years his wife’s senior, was to die. For almost 20 years Margaret Austen-Leigh lived in the property alone and it is through Margaret that the current owner Mary Burkett was to inherit. Being very dear friends, Mrs Austen-Leigh left the property to Miss Burkett in 1986. It later transpired that they had in fact been very distantly related by marriage. Since 1986 Miss Mary Burkett has lived in the property alone and too has no family or children to which the property will be left.

Isel Hall

Isel Hall

Before our guide Ada took us around the house, we were ushered outside to meet Miss Burkett who directed us to two chairs on the terrace. After introducing herself, she embarked on a brief history of the property and how she had come to inherit. We also learned about her distinguished carrier as Director of Abbot’s Hall Art Gallery and an eminent art historian. We were also very interested to learn that she had founded the International Felting Association in 1984, re-introducing the art of felting to the West. Miss Burkett, who is now approaching 90, continues to pen book after book which all appear to sell very well, adding to her extensive list of lifetime achievements. Whilst we were sat on the terrace chatting away, in what the guides latterly told us is very ‘Miss Burkett’, she stopped mid-sentence and asked Craig if he could reach a weed from high up on the house wall! Having managed to pull only half of the weed down, Craig proceeded to pull up a chair to stand on so he could clear the remainder of the stone ledge to which Miss Burkett exclaimed ‘Oh great! An activist!’ It could only happen to us!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Isel_Hall

Our tour of the house ran over somewhat so after more than two hours, we spent what little time we had remaining exploring the galleries and shops in Keswick.

 

Lake District June 2014 – Day 6

An early start today as lots on our agenda to fit in. First call was Rydal Mount, a beautifully appointed country residence, the home of William Wordsworth for the last 37 years of his life.

Rydal Mount - last home of Wordsworth

Rydal Mount – last home of Wordsworth

http://www.rydalmount.co.uk/rydalmount/

Following Wordsworth’s death in the early 19th century, the house was eventually sold and went out of the family. In 1969 the house was bought again by a descendant of William Wordsworth and has been owned by the family ever since. The property is now operated as a tourist attraction and live in managers oversee the day to day running of the site. The current tenants have lived there for the past 20 years and thoroughly enjoy the lifestyle it affords them. The work involved in greeting international visitors and groups on a daily basis is countered by having the property to themselves to enjoy out of hours. The property is lovely, the elevated position offers wonderful vistas of Lake Windermere, Rydal Water and the surrounding countryside. Different to the Wordsworth Museum we visited earlier in the week in so much as it focuses more on Wordsworth as a family man, Rydal Mount offers a wonderful overview of the social history relating to the property and Wordsworth as a husband, father and brother.

Following our Rydal visit, we journeyed South towards Kendal and Levens Hall, famed for its large Elizabethan Manor house and topiary garden which is of National importance.

Levens Hall

Levens Hall

http://www.levenshall.co.uk/

The gardens were first appointed by a French gardener Guillaume Beaumont, a pupil of le Notre at Versailles in 1688 and retain a very similar lay out to this day. Typically Elizabethan with lots of dark oak panelling, the property has a complex family history and has a collection of leather wall hangings of great importance, some of the finest in the world. Amongst the family’s collection of fine antiques, clocks and war memorabilia are also examples of the earliest English quilting work in existence. The workmanship of the quilting is magnificent and the textile has been made up of tiny fragments of precious Indian silk intricately stitched together.

A short trip from Levens Hall found of at Sizergh Castle, out last stop of the day.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/sizergh/visitor-information/

Sizergh Castle

Sizergh Castle

One of the largest National Trust properties in Cumbria, we spent a very enjoyable and enlightening couple of hours exploring the house and its collections. Associated with the Strickland family since 1239, the property, although now owned by the National Trust, is still lived in by members of the Strickland family. Based around a central pele tower, as with so many of the old properties in this area, the house has undergone several periods of change and renovation throughout its history. The house we see today remains largely unchanged from the last period of updating in the early 19th century. The information in the rooms was excellent and we were able to piece together the family through their portraits and contributions to the house’s collection. Each generation has contributed, whether it be in the fabric of the building and interiors, or an addition to the the fine collections of porcelain and antiques. The guides were very friendly and only too pleased to share their knowledge of certain pieces throughout the house. The furniture and ceramics were especially impressive. We’ve now developed quite a taste for pate-sur-pate work it would seem!

Lake District June 2014 – Day 5

Another white knuckle trek this morning up (very steep) hill and down (very narrow) dale to Brantwood, home to eminent Victorian gentleman, Ruskin. We did see a baby red squirrel on the way though so that made the journey worthwhile!

 

Brantwood - home of Ruskin

Brantwood – home of Ruskin

After the obligatory stop at the tea room we began our visit with a video that gave an overview of Ruskin’s life. Prolific writer, art critic, artist, social reformer, pioneering photographer and naturalist, many of the aspirations Ruskin so desperately worked towards were never realised in his life time. Today, elements of our social security system, public transport, landlord/tenant agreements, working hours and city conditions have their roots in Ruskin’s work and ideals. Whilst we were aware of Ruskin’s involvement in the arts and crafts movement and his work as a renowned art critic (he fervently rejected criticism of Turner’s work from the art world and in later years became a beneficiary of Turner’s will) we were not aware of the emotional and mental turmoil he experienced during his life, culminating in horrendous hallucinations and nightmares that eventually led to his demise at the age of 81. Nowadays, it is thought that the sheer mental pressure of his commitments both as a professor at Oxford, social reformer, artist and writer just proved too much for him to handle and ultimately led to a nervous breakdown. Brantwood was to become his retreat and he ploughed his efforts and energy in to creating a wonderful home and gardens, still enjoyed today.

View from Brantwood - Coniston Water

View from Brantwood – Coniston Water

View from Brantwood - Coniston Water

View from Brantwood – Coniston Water

Much of the collection is Ruskin’s original work with additional pieces from his immediate creative circle and peers. The history was fascinating and it helped to give a new dimension to Ruskin’s life that we didn’t know about. Over the course of his 18 years at Brantwood he made several structural changes to the house as well as purchasing surrounding land and unusable Lake side fell land that remain a wonderful combination of gardens, glades, forest walks, lakeside paths and a pier today.

Feeling inspired and full of Victorian vigour, we retraced our journey north to Mirehouse, a small country house nestled at the foot of Skiddaw on the shores of Bassenthwaite Lake, just North of Keswick.

http://mirehouse.com/house

Built by the Earl of Derby in 1666 and only sold once since in 1688, the house has strong literary links and this is still the case today. An annual literary and poetry festival in March and a series of exhibitions and events throughout the year help to support the estate and increase its profile locally and nationally. Now, as part of an agreement with the Forestry Commission and Dodd Wood, the estate also offers extensive adventure play areas, hidden gardens and lake side walks along with a rare example of protect wild flower meadow.

 

Mirehouse protect meadow information

Mirehouse protect meadow information

Mirehouse meadow

Mirehouse meadow

The bottom floor of the house is open to the public and over the years has played host to numerous country house parties, weekend gatherings, honeymoons and visits from various scholars, essayists and writers of the time. Included amongst the guest list have been Charles Darwin, Thomas Carlyle, Constable, Wordsworth and Tennyson to name but a few. During its 19th century heyday, the house must have been a heady combination of games, parties, balls and gatherings and this is the way in which it is presented today. Supported by original manuscripts, books and articles, the history is interesting and we enjoyed learning about the ‘Cambridge Apostles’ and the trials and tribulations of a variety of Victorian Geniuses. Needless to say, some things never change!

Our evening was spent on a ghost walk of Keswick. Our guide for the evening was a ghostly Victorian Lady who guided us through the streets of Keswick relaying stories of supernatural sightings and strange goings-on. Sadly, not the best ghost walk we’ve been on and very expensive at £10 per head (considering similar walks in York and Worcester are only £5 per head and much better). Whilst the stories were based on local anecdotes and witness accounts, the commentary lacked context and would have been greatly improved with a little local history added in to bring the town, buildings and their inhabitants to life. Also, this wasn’t the guides fault, but Keswick on a Saturday evening in June is full of noisy revellers and as such, creating an atmosphere conducive with spooky stories proved very difficult. On the plus side we did see some parts of Keswick a little further off the beaten track than we wouldn’t have seen without. Needless to say, we weren’t sufficiently spooked to require the bedroom light on through the night!

Lake District June 2014 – Day 4

A South bound journey this morning and a stone’s throw from Windermere we find Troutbeck, http://www.troutbeck.org/ a pretty little stone village slightly off the beaten track and a snap shot of Lakeland life off the tourist trail. Rolling hills and a sleepy pace compliment the rustic style village shop and tea room, our destination for both elevenses and lunch today. In between our tea room visits we did manage to squeeze in a guided tour of Townend, a small Nation Trust property nestle amongst the hills and sheep farms high above the lakes.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/townend/

Townend.

Townend.

Owned and live in by the Browne family since the 1500’s the house is a time capsule of history through the centuries. Evident throughout all of the rooms are additions made by each generation of the family. Some built extensions whilst others carved every piece of wood from top to bottom but all in all, over hundreds of years, each addition, alteration and change has helped to create a wonderfully characterful and eclectic collection. Our guide John was excellent and obviously very enthusiast about the property and its history. Not your standard National trust property but very enjoyable never the less.

16th Century Townend barn, still in use today.

16th Century Townend barn, still in use today.

Whilst enjoying our lunch we got talking to a couple from Hertfordshire who too were on holiday in the Lake District. They had recently joined the National trust so of course, we took the opportunity to bombard them with information and recommendations both locally and nationally! Having spent some time talking, they finally decided to visit Wray Castle, another National Trust property around the lake some 15 miles away. Having pulled away in our car we saw them walking down the road in the middle of nowhere. We stopped and wound our window down and shouted “if you keep walking you should get there by night fall!”. It transpired that the couple had left their car in Townend car park and walking into the village! Upon driving away we heard the lady exclaim “bye now, love you!”, it must have been an automatic response, it kept us laughing for ages!

Following our second (and equally delicious) visit to the tea room, we made our way back to Grasmere for our second stop of the day, Dove Cottage and the William Wordsworth Museum.

https://wordsworth.org.uk/visit/dove-cottage.html

Our visit began with a guided tour of Dove Cottage, the home of William Wordsworth and his young family for 8 years.

 

Dove Cottage.

Dove Cottage.

The ancient main road through the Lake District used to pass straight in front of the house and it was originally used as an inn. As time passed, the inn became the Wordsworths’ home and many of his major works were written during his time here. He makes several references to the people he met, the places he visited and the relationship his had with the surrounding countryside and the nature within. Following the tour of the cottage we learnt more about the Poet Laureate (which incidentally he turned down three times before finally accepting and through his entire time in the post didn’t actually write any poetry!) in the museum. The displays split Wordsworth’s life into childhood, formative years, adult life, life abroad and later life. A combination of original manuscripts, extensive archive material and in depth commentary made it a very interesting and informative read.

Our final stop of the day was Allan Bank, the home that Wordsworth moved too with his growing family once they had outgrown Dove Cottage.

Allan Bank.

Allan Bank.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/allan-bank-and-grasmere/

Now in the care of the National Trust, the house has undergone some dramatic changes very recently. Up until 2011 the house was tenanted by the National Trust and unfortunately a fire started gutting most of the property. Having re-housed the existing tenants they soon decided that they preferred their new place and as such the trust were left with an empty shell devastated by fire and nothing to do with it. As an experiment, the trust decided to try a ‘soft opening’, welcoming local visitors and recommendations but not listing the property on the website or in the guide book. The opening was a resounding success and despite the lack of advertising, they welcomed 27000 visitors in the first year alone, enough to undertake some basic repairs and open a tea room. Now in it’s third year, the visitor numbers continue to increase and the house has been temporarily presented as the bare shell. The staff and volunteers have created areas that are very hands on and interactive. They encourage you to take your drinks from the tea room around the house, take time to read a book, paint a picture or spend time relaxing with some crochet.

View from Allan Bank

View from Allan Bank

Craig's painted view from Allan Bank!

Craig’s painted view from Allan Bank!

Throughout the house the trust is asking visitors how they’d like Allan Bank to present it’s story to visitors. Should it be renovated? How should it be dressed? Should it be dressed and renovated? We always prefer to visit properties that are dressed and renovated and so our suggestion was ‘Allan Bank – the house that members built’. We suggested selling tickets for various renovation workshops to members and under the guidance of craftsmen, undertake projects throughout the house as part of a learning experience. This way, the course fees pay towards the renovation, it provides work for local craftspeople and members feel that they have contributed to the history of the building whilst work is completed. We’ll have to wait and see…

Lake District June 2014 – Day 3

A journey East this morning to the outskirts of Penrith and Dalemain Mansion, an Elizabethan Manor house with Georgian extensions owned by the same family by over 400 years.

 

Dalemain Mansion

Dalemain Mansion

First stop (of course) was the tea room and unfortunately, we were last in the queue following an influx of coach parties all stopping for their morning break. To our pleasant surprise, the queue was dealt with quickly and efficiently and we were soon sat down enjoying our elevenses in time for the 11.15 guided tour.

http://www.dalemain.com/index.php

Our housekeeper-turned-guide Jan was excellent and we enjoyed a good mix of history, humour and family information as we worked our way around the house. From the family’s early beginnings and links to the murder of Thomas Becket in Canterbury Cathedral to a modern day Paris-based photographer, the family still reside in the house and are looking to a bright future managing the estate. Awarded the prestigious HHA/Christie’s Garden of the Year award in 2013, the estate as a business is going from strength to strength. Organised for the first time some nine years ago by the current Lady of the House, the famous Dalemain Marmalade awards and festival is thriving and 2014’s winner (of which we treated ourselves to a jar) is now in production and being stocked exclusively at Dalemain and Fortnum & Mason (it’s delicious by the way, has a hint of ale in it!).

Humphrey with the Double Gold WInning Dalemain Marmalade.

Humphrey with the Double Gold WInning Dalemain Marmalade.

http://www.dalemainmarmaladeawards.co.uk/

The house itself is a medley of 16th century peal tower, Elizabethan Manor house and Georgian extensions and facades, all of which make for a very interesting visit and a variety of head heights to say the least. The rooms are impressive with an intimate collection of family portraits, both old and new, giving the house a welcoming appeal and a lived in feel. After finishing our tour we ambled around the gardens, particularly enjoying the old fashioned rose specimens and herbaceous perennial borders, just glorious at this time of year.

A short journey around Penrith bought us to our second stop of the day, Hutton-in-the-Forest, another fine example of peal tower, 17th century quarters and a mock Victorian castellated extension all of which from a distance have been skilfully blended into what looks like a property built all of the same period.

http://hutton-in-the-forest.co.uk/

After a tasty lunch in the tea room, our guide for the afternoon Christine (a fellow ceramicist) was very informative and we enjoyed looking around the house with a very exclusive tour of just four people! Pot Fest, a festival of ceramics, is held each year in the grounds so amongst the historical treasures there are dotted several modern ceramics which the family purchase intermittently as an ongoing commitment to extending the family collection. Several of the rooms on the tour were decorated and furnished in the arts and crafts style and our particular favourite was the Victorian drawing room, stuffed with pattern, artefacts of all shapes and sizes, gorgeous textiles and art work. The more the better!

After concluding our tour we made a last minute decision to head North into Carlisle and visit the Tullie House and Carlisle Museum and Art Gallery.

http://www.tulliehouse.co.uk/

Tullie House, a Georgian house once forming part of the old town centre, has more recently been incorporated into the modern gallery and now houses a significant collection of Pre-Raphaelite art. Much of the collection was bequeathed to the museum in the 1970’s and is now beautifully displayed amongst an impressive collection of 18th and 19th century ceramics, a real feast for the eyes! In the modern day building, the extensive museum houses several displays including a Roman history of the area and Hadrian’s Wall to industrial Carlisle and the Railway network. There is also a gallery of changing exhibitions and currently there is a collection of modern ceramics by contemporary ceramic artist Richard Slee, interesting, but not particularly our cup of tea, give us a cabinet of 19th century Coalport any day! http://www.richardslee.com/

After being kicked out of the museum so that the staff could lock up behind us, we spent the next hour or so wandering around the old town, soaking in the wonderful architecture and listening to choir practice in the Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

Interior of Carlisle Cathedral.

The cathedral and deanery are very pretty and the outdoor information boards were interested in so much as they described how the area had changed over several centuries and evolved into what we see today. The ceiling in the cathedral was particularly impressive and there were some information boards about the Thomas Becket story which tied in nicely with our Dalemain visit earlier on in the day.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Thomas Becket Story, Carlisle Cathedral.

Humphrey’s Holiday Snaps – Lake District June 2014

Here's the first one of me arriving at the cottage. Just look at the view from our window! As you can see, I travel lightly (there was of course the additional cool bag FULL of fresh greens and tasty treats for me!).

Here’s the first one of me arriving at the cottage. Just look at the view from our window! As you can see, I travel lightly (there was of course the additional cool bag FULL of fresh greens and tasty treats for me!).

Here I am settling into my holiday cottage.....DADDY!! I can't reach the remote control!

Here I am settling into my holiday cottage…..DADDY!! I can’t reach the remote control!

My mummy and daddy bought me a new radio and timer thingy to bring away so that I didn't get lonely whilst they were out exploring. I learnt a lot from Radio 2! I also met some lovely new friends, here I am with Mr Bear. Sadly, I couldn't find Peter Rabbit.

My mummy and daddy bought me a new radio and timer thingy to bring away so that I didn’t get lonely whilst they were out exploring. I learnt a lot from Radio 2!
I also met some lovely new friends, here I am with Mr Bear. Sadly, I couldn’t find Peter Rabbit.

Here I am helping Mummy and Daddy plan their busy agenda and writing on Grandma's post card telling her everything I've been doing.

Here I am helping Mummy and Daddy plan their busy agenda and writing on Grandma’s post card telling her everything I’ve been doing.

All of the treats that Daddy enjoyed and guinea pigs aren't allowed (mummy wasn't too keen on them either!). Don't feel too sorry for me though, look at the next photo of me and MY treats!

All of the treats that Daddy enjoyed and guinea pigs aren’t allowed (mummy wasn’t too keen on them either!). Don’t feel too sorry for me though, look at the next photo of me and MY treats!

Mummy and Daddy treated me to this very cute Peter Rabbit spoon. It's just perfect for Mummy to feed me my special holiday treats....mandarins and cherries!

Mummy and Daddy treated me to this very cute Peter Rabbit spoon. It’s just perfect for Mummy to feed me my special holiday treats….mandarins and cherries!

And so to bed.... Holidaying is hard work. Here I am getting snuggled down in bed but not before Mummy reads me a Beatrix Potter story.

And so to bed….
Holidaying is hard work. Here I am getting snuggled down in bed but not before Mummy reads me a Beatrix Potter story.

 

Lake District June 2014 – Day 2

Lake District June 2014 – Day 2

Our second day in the wonderful Lakes and we already feel like we’re getting used to the pace and way of life. This morning’s journey seemed to pass more quickly, and with some careful juggling we managed to avoid the crowds and groups. The scenery is stunning, a dramatic combination of valleys, mountains and lakes, every bend frames another lovely view. The Herdwick sheep are particularly cute!

For us, one of the first things we think about when you say the Lake District is Beatrix Potter. We were both keen to learn more about this fascinating lady, her life and works. Like many pioneering Victorian women, her story has become focused on her work as an author and is synonymous with Peter Rabbit. Although a fantastically successful worldwide author, what many people don’t know is that she was also a very keen and talented naturalist, writing and presenting scientific papers on the germination of fungus spores. Her botanical drawings are of encyclopaedic standard and, in her later years, her focused moved to farming and strategically purchasing Lake District farmland in order to safeguard its future. Upon her death, Beatrix bequeathed over 4000 aces and 20 farms to the nation. A remarkable woman.

First stop, and a great place to begin our Beatrix Potter journey, was the Beatrix Potter Gallery, a National Trust property in the heart of Hawkshead, a pretty stone village overlooking Lake Windermere.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/beatrix-potter-gallery/

Housed in the original offices of Heelis’ Solicitors, the gallery gives an overview of Beatrix’s life from a formal, middle class Victorian upbringing and home education to her publications and beyond. Amongst the treasures are several of Beatrix’s original painting, letters and annotations, beautifully brought to life with extensive commentary. Although only small, the gallery gave us a good overview of Beatrix’s work and we were looking forward to exploring Hill Top Farm later on in the day.

Before exploring the farm however we made a stop at Stott Park Bobbin Mill, an English Heritage property.

http://www.english-heritage.org.uk/daysout/properties/stott-park-bobbin-mill/

Photo 2014-06-25 14.47.27

Stott Park Bobbin Mill

The mill is the last example of a bobbin mill not only in the Lake District but also the UK. It is possibly the last wooden bobbin mill in the world! A working mill until 1971, Stott Park was one of countless mills dotted around the Lakes during the 19th Century. Working in a mill was considered a fairly clean and respectable job in its day and was in fact one of the main local employers for several generations. Surrounded by everything required to produce bobbins, namely woodland and running water, the mill was, at its peak, producing over a million bobbins a month! Our guided tour took us around the mill, demonstrating each process in order of the original production methods. From cutting the basic shape from the seasoned wood to the finishing lathe and drying rooms, the working machinery showed us not only how dangerous the work could be but also what a skilled job it was. Starting as apprentices when only 7 or 8 years old, it was often decades before a job on the finishing lathe came up, the highest paid and most skilled job in the mill. Of course, in those days jobs were for life and in a mill where only 20-25 men were employed, you could be waiting a while for a post to arise! We learnt that bobbins were seen as disposable commodities, and once finished with, they were never recycled or re-filled. Mills in the height of 19th century textile production would consume several thousand per week, a high and consistent demand creating plenty of work for the mill. Unfortunately, as with many skilled workers, automated production and foreign out-sourcing forced the mills to differentiate and in the 20th century, the main output was garden tool handles, ladder rungs for the forces and duffel coat buttons! After finishing our tour we made our way back around the banks of Windermere to Hill Top Farm, our last stop of the day.

http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hill-top/

Hill Top Farm was Beatrix’s first permanent home in the Lake District.

Hill Top Farm

Hill Top Farm

She lived here briefly until she married her solicitor and land agent William Heelis, upon which she moved a stone’s throw away into another farm. Once residing in her married home, Beatrix retained Hill Top as her office and studio, extending the building to provide larger, more formal rooms where she would meet with publishers, farmers and the like in the day to day management of her farms and books. After a brief introduction to the house, we were left to explore in our own time. In essence, the building is basic and fairly compact in size but what makes it so special is that everything in it, all the contents, furniture, textiles and the like, were once Beatrix’s and had been left exactly how she wanted them to be seen, all planned down to the last letter in her will. Luckily, having timed our visit later on in the day, we were not inundated with coaches and groups and whilst still fairly busy, it was comfortable with plenty of time to explore and ample opportunity to speak to the guides. One guide in particular was very keen to chat and when we told her that we’d brought Humphrey the guinea pig away with us, she proceeded to tell us that Beatrix had once borrowed a friend’s guinea pigs to draw and after consuming, string, tacks and putty, it unfortunately expired in the night! Oh dear!

BPGP

Beatrix Potter’s Guinea Pig Drawings

BPGP1

Beatrix Potter’s Guinea Pig drawings

The Lake District June 2014 – Day 1

The first thing you need to know about the Lake District is that SatNav generated travel times should be completely ignored. It is only as we returned home did a customer of ours comment ‘didn’t you realise that you have to work in Lake District miles, it’s the same as Cornish miles!’. Taking into the account the high volume of traffic and tourism, we’re yet to undertake a journey that doesn’t take at least half an hour longer than anticipated! Juxtaposed against the stunning mountain scenery, elegant lakes and beautifully rugged countryside; an abundance of coaches, snaking groups of foreign tourists on a tight schedule and outdoor water sports enthusiasts/walkers steel much of the focus when passing through towns and tourism hot spots. With a bit of clever time management and forward planning, we’re hoping to achieve a more authentic Lakes experience, taking opportunity to soak up the traditions and way of life that has made the Lakes a holiday favourite since Victorian times. Our first stop, following a rather arduous journey, was Holker Hall, family home to a side arm of the Chatsworth Cavendish family. http://www.holker.co.uk/ The house and collection is beautiful. It sounds strange to comment on such a thing but the rooms and interiors were immaculately clean and everything was wonderfully conserved and in a good state of repair. We visit so many stately homes that are in a state of ‘faded splendour’ that it seems unusual to see everything so vibrant and well-worn. Unlike so many country homes, Holker Hall enjoys a healthy and consistent income from a variety of revenue streams and we wonder whether this goes some way towards keeping everything so well conserved. Having the funds to invest in the things that so many other country houses only dream of must be a blessing.

View of Holker Hall from the gardens.

View of Holker Hall from the gardens.

Unfortunately, our experience of the staff was not quite so positive. After a grumpily muttered welcome from the lady in the ticket hut, our reception in the tea room was luke warm to say the least. However, faith was restored when our jacket potatoes, which were not only generous but also very tasty, were delivered promptly with a smile by a member of the kitchen team. Inside the house, whilst the guides were undeniably knowledgeable and enthusiastic about the family and collection, the way in which the rotation rota was managed was terrible, very obtrusive and resulted in, on more than one occasion, a guide to snap at a fellow guide and stomping of in a huff! Not conducive with a pleasant visit although quite amusing to watch from a distance! Whilst we appreciate that the two of us may well be in a minority on this, we felt that there wasn’t enough information available to visitors in each of the rooms. Upon entering the house we were informed that this was intentional, and that it was presented in this way as it represented more accurate portrayal of a lived-in family home. The idea was that the guides would be available to give a potted history and answer any questions on individual items. We do like a good wodge of information to plough our way through, the more the better, so from this point of view we were a little disappointed. To make matters worse, the guides were that intent on clock watching and waiting for the signal to rotate/go to the toilet/go for lunch/jump up and down, that they were unable to focus on the job in hand and dedicate time to the visitors and their enquiries. From Holker we retraced our route North into the heart of the Lakes and Blackwell Arts & Crafts House.

http://www.blackwell.org.uk/

The once holiday home of a wealthy Victorian Manchester shipping magnate, Blackwell is a show piece of art and crafts design. Following an extensive programme of renovation over the last decade, Blackwell now represents a time capsule of design, highlighting several trends and key features of the arts and crafts movement both in terms of architecture and interior design. Being fans of the Victorian design and the arts and crafts movement we really enjoyed learning about the key members of the movement and the contributions they made to the fashions of the period. With the added bonus of numerous information boards we were happy bunnies! We were also lucky that our visit coincided with a ‘100 Years of Moorcroft’ exhibition, one of our favourite ceramic designers. It was fascinating to learn about the history of the firm and its journey from conception in the late 19th century to modern day. We especially like the profiles on individual designers displayed alongside key pieces of their work and designs.

Blackwell Arts & Crafts House.

Blackwell Arts & Crafts House.

Once again, our visit was somewhat marred by the terrible service we received in the tea room. Having experience of running a tea room ourselves, we found the half an hour wait for two hot drinks and a slice of brownie completely unacceptable. To make matters worse, we clocked six members of staff in and out of the kitchen, none of which seemed to know what they were supposed to be doing and throughout the duration of our visit, the tea room was no more than half full. Needless to say, we did give some feedback whilst paying for our drinks!

View of WIndermere from Blackwell Arts & Crafts House.

View of Windermere from Blackwell Arts & Crafts House.

We’ve been treated to lots of beautiful works of art today but for us, these stole the show. A pair of ceramic birds by ceramic artist Anna Adams.

Ceramic Birds Anna Adams

Ceramic Birds Anna Adams

Anna Adams Ceramic Artist information.

Anna Adams Ceramic Artist information.

http://www.theguardian.com/theguardian/2011/oct/11/anna-adams-obituary

A late afternoon wander around Grasmere rounded off our day perfectly (the large portion of Grasmere Gingerbread also helped!).

Sarah Nelson's Cottage - the home of Grasmere Gingerbread

Sarah Nelson’s Cottage – the home of Grasmere Gingerbread